12/12/12 Chatterbox
Betty Kaiser
Christmas is in the air. Like everyone else, my life is a
flurry of activities as I compile list after list of what to do and when to do
it.
The decorating is done but we still don’t have a tree. The
annual Christmas letter is still waiting to be written. Most gifts have been
purchased but for some people I don’t have a clue. There are cookies to bake,
meals to plan, gatherings of friends and church services to attend. It’s a busy
time of year.
But thanks to Melinda, my longtime travel agent friend, I am
sitting here with a stack of travel catalogs while Jingle Bells plays in the
background. Melinda thinks that we and our husbands should take a trip to England
and Germany to explore the fabulous, glittering world of open air Christmas
Markets. The brochures show romanticized photos of visitors dressed in snow
boots and parkas as they browse the shops drinking mulled wine among twinkling
lights. Beautiful!
“No, no, we can’t go,” I protested weakly. Christmas is not
a travel time. It is family time. My childhood memories of Christmas are still
bright. They range from buying dime store gifts for my siblings to riding a new
bicycle and eating grandma’s yeast rolls. Christmas is a big deal and everyone
has always been home on December 25.
Still, the ads are tempting. “Nothing gets you into the
festive mood like a good old Christmas market teeming with cheery stall holders
selling handmade gifts from twinkling wooden chalets, the sweet smell of mulled
wine and a couple of tap dancing turkeys!”
I think it was the turkeys that got me. Soon I was
entertaining visions of visiting new places and learning new Christmas
traditions—on site. But it’s winter. I don’t like the cold and I have grandchildren.
I’ve been to some of these places when it’s warm. I can’t go now. So, instead,
I’m going to share some of my discoveries with you. Come along with me, you’ll
enjoy the journey.
The city of Cologne, Germany, offers a total of six
Christmas Markets.
I vividly remember visiting Cologne one hot day in May.
Teeming crowds of visitors wearing shorts and tee shirts gave a cursory look at
the Cologne Cathedral as they jostled one another on the way to the harbor for
a tour of the Chocolate Museum. Winter brings a different crowd.
The four largest markets attract about two million visitors.
The Cathedral is the impressive backdrop for the largest Christmas tree in the
Rhineland and over 160 wooden pavilions feature artisans in all media and of
course, food and mulled wine. Pictures show the entire city sparkling like gold
with strolling musicians and bands. I was very tempted to click Expedia’s ‘book
now’ button.
Both Germany and England are known for their castles but how
about a castle and a cavern? Castleton, England is home to the picturesque
ruins of a Norman Castle and four spectacular caverns with stalagmites and
stalactites. And Peak’s Cavern is a Christmas favorite that offers evening
songfests at the entrance to the lead cave. They say the acoustics are great
for singing traditional hymns like “We Three Kings” and even “Rudolph the
Red-Nosed Reindeer.”
And then there’s Rome. Sure we’ve been there in the
brilliant sunshine of summer but how about winter? Every year a
larger-than-life nativity scene is unveiled in St. Peter’s Square on Dec. 24
just in time for the Pope’s midnight mass. And you can pick up your own crèche
set at the Piazza Navona Christmas Market. Also available are depictions of the
Italian witch La Befana made of burlap and straw. She is said to fly around on
a broomstick at Epiphany dropping candy or lumps of coal down chimneys. Sound
familiar?
A little closer to home, in Taos, New Mexico, bonfires blaze
nightly in the plazas, bringing what one person described as a “block-party
vibe” to the town. Brown paper bags lighted with votive candles line streets of
famous galleries and art studios made famous by Ansel Adams and Georgia
O’Keeffe. Christmas Eve, there’s a procession at Taos Pueblo, a 1,000 year old
adobe settlement and on Christmas Day harvest and hunt dances are performed in
the center plaza.
One of the most unique western hemisphere events takes place
in Oaxaca, Mexico. On the evening of Dec. 23 it is home to a century old
competiton known as the Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes). In the city’s
central square, farmers display elaborate sculptures of nativity scenes, robed
kings and musicians all carved out of giant locally grown radishes. The
sculptures are judged and then fireworks light up the sky.
Christmas Eve, Posadas—door-to-door processions that
re-enact Mary and Joseph’s search for shelter— fill the streets along with a
parade. And then, there is the tradition of “breaking of the plates.” People buy crispy bunuelos, topped with sugar or syrup and
then smash the ceramic plate to the ground to signify the end of the old year.
Personally, I can’t help but wonder who cleans up after them.
Finally, thousands of miles away in Jerusalem, it’s business
as usual on Dec. 24 and 25 because only two percent of the population is
Christian. But Christmas is joyously celebrated in the Christian quarter of the
Old City where Jesus lived and died. Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus, is
only six miles south a short pilgrimage from Jerusalem. There, marching bands
and bagpipers led by Arabian horses weave through the narrow streets to Manger
Square, the plaza outside the Basilica of the Nativity, which stands on the
grotto where Jesus was born. It’s a solemn yet joyous time for all.
It’s funny how writing things down can change one’s
perspective. I realize that interesting as these destinations are, our yearly
family traditions are equally fascinating. Christmas anchors our lives and
connects us spiritually. Our time together builds family history. It grounds
the youngsters, fosters values and shapes their lives. And it’s fun! Spending
time with family is a priceless, memory-making and heart-warming experience.
Truly, there is no place like home for the holidays. (Of
course, if the family wants to go with us to Europe next year that would be
great!)
Betty Kaiser’s Chatterbox is about people,
places, family, and other matters of the heart. Contact her at 942-1317 or via
e-mail — bchatty@bettykaiser.com
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